What you should know about SKIN CARE

DARK SKIN CARE

In order to have and maintain healthy skin you must first understand why skin is healty and second you must know what is required to keep skin healty.

• Knowledge
• Self-examination
• Protection 
• Sustenance 

Knowledge

Knowledge

The first step to good skin health is being knowledgeable about your skin. We clearly know that the melanin in dark skin distinguishes it from other skin colors. There are several other distinctive characteristics that may be present in women with dark skin.
These include:

1. Futcher's Lines: The line of pigmentation occurring symmetrically and bilaterally along the lateral edge of the biceps muscle Mid-line
2. Hypopigmentation: Skin on middle of chest that is lighter in color than the skin toward sides of chest and midsternal
3. Palmar Crease Hyperpigmentation:  Creases in palms that are darker than skin on the remainder of palms
4. Hyperpigmented Kerototic Palmer Pitting:  Pinpoint holes in palms of hand with a dark interior
5. Pigmented Nail Streaks: Dark brown streaks running from cuticle to end of nails. If, however, you have a streak on Caution: Should there be a streak on only one nail, it could be a sign of cancer. See a dermatologist for evaluation.
6. Gingival Hyperpigmentation: Darkened gum tissue around teeth.

Self-Examination

Self-Examination

The second step to healthy dark skin is to routinely do a thorough skin examination on yourself. Traditionally, dark skin is less susceptible to skin cancer, but when it does strike, it is often more deadly than compared to most other skin types. Women of color (and men) should be aware that they are indeed at risk for skin cancer and that early detection is very important. At the very least, you should examined your skin from head to toe once a month, paying particular attention to your hands, fingers, feet, toes, nails and mouth, where melanoma type skin cancers are more likely to appear in dark skin people. Look for dark brown or black skin spots in these areas no matter the size. Pay particular attention to new spots or spots that are becoming larger. The change can also be in shape or color or a raised bump that develops within the skin spot. A bump on the foot or toe that is sore or does not heal is another sign of skin cancer. Be on the lookout for dark streaks or lines along your fingernails or toenails. If you find anything unusual, any area that you think might have changed or any particularly dark or irregular spot, see your dermatologist as soon as possible.
The National Cancer Institute recommends the following steps for checking for signs of skin cancer. Use a mirror to check all areas including your hands, feet, nails, back, scalp, buttocks and genital areas as follows.

1. Check both the front and back of your body using a mirror, and then with your arms raised,  check the left and right sides.
2. Carefully check your palms and forearms, including the undersides and your upper arms and arm pits.
3. Examine the back and front of your legs, as well as between the buttocks and around the genital area.
4. Examine your feet, including the soles and spaces between the toes.
5. Examine your face, neck and scalp.

Protection

Protection

The third step to ensure healthy dark skin is to insure that your skin has maximum protection from the sun. Though the average woman with brown skin has a natural SPF of 13 (which means you can stay in the sun without burning 13 times longer than a woman with white skin), we still need to include sunscreen in our daily skin care routine for healthy skin. Sunscreens work by absorbing the harmful ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB) rays before they can affect the skin. Sunblocks create a protective barrier that reflects UV rays, causing them to bounce off the skin. For most women of color, a sunscreen with an SPF 15 (which means you can stay in the sun 15 times longer without burning) is sufficient, but if you have certain medical conditions, such as lupus, or take certain medications, or have dark marks or skin discolorations, you may need a sunscreen with an SPF 30. Look for broad-spectrum products containing ingredients that protect the skin from both UVA and UVB rays.

Sunscreen Tips

• Dark skin women (and men) should use sunscreen daily.
• Always apply sunscreen 20 minutes before exposing your skin to the sun.
• Apply sunscreen generously to skin (face, neck and hands). 
• Reapply additional sunscreen after exercising or swimming.
• Do not use sunscreen after expiration dates or after one year.
• Apply sunscreen before applying makeup. 
• Use a sunscreen that meets your personal preferences.

Sustenance

Sustenance

The final step to care for healthy dark skin is to nurture your skin. Use only the highest quality soaps, cleansers, toners, moisturizers, astringents, anti-aging products, and anti-acne agents available.

Avoid using:

• Cleansers, toners or astringents containing alcohol, propylene glycol, fragrance, or dyes. 
• Products containing essential oils that are concentrated oil extracts from plants. 
• Moisturizers containing fragrance, lanolin, dye, alcohol or propylene glycol. 
• Sunscreens containing fragrance, oil, PABA. 
• Makeups containing oil. 
• Alpha-hydroxy acid in high concentrations or at certain pHs. 
• Detergents and fabric softeners containing fragrance, dyes, or preservatives.

Now that you are aware of ingredients to avoid in maintaining your dark skin, you can concentrate on the proper cleansing technique for maintaining your skin. Many women with dark skin make the mistake of over-cleaning of the face, neck, elbows and knees. Mostly too often or too roughly. But most skin care problems like acne, dark marks, clogged pores are not caused by dirt. You do not need to use harsh products or rough cleansing techniques to clean your skin.

Use the following cleansing techniques for guidance.

• Cleanse your face daily to remove dirt, oil and makeup. 
• Avoid abrasive cleansers or cleansing products, which tend to irritate your skin.
• Cleanse facial skin with your fingertips, massaging gently in a circular motion.
• Use products designed for your skin type only: oily, dry, normal, combination, sensitive, acne-prone or hyperpigmenting.
• Exfollate if you need to remove dull, dead skin cells by using gentle exfoliating acids found in skin products, but test the product on a small patch of skin first or check with your dermatologist.

Conclusion

To properly care for dark skin requires knowledge of its unique structure and properties. Monthly self-examinations and protection from the sun are essential for the health of this skin type. Avoidance of products that irritate dark skin, and can lead to dark marks, is essential. XXX  XXX

BLACK SKIN CARE

There are products for black skin care. African American skin care is sometimes different than for Caucasians and Asians since a black skin care product needs heavy oil that penetrates deep into the skin and leaves skin healthy but not abundantly oily. Emu oil products work best. African American skin tends to loose elasticity very easily resulting in loose skin, stretch marks and fat globs around the waist, thighs, stomach, breasts and face and neck area.

Do not use skin lighteners or bleaching creams containing steroids. These can cause permanent skin damage including permanent redness, thinning and blood vessel streaks. Also avoid skin lighteners or bleaching creams containing mercury as this is a poison. Tretinoin applied daily for many months will treat irregular pigmentation. Daily use of sunscreen will help prevent irregular pigmentation form occuring. Jessner's solution applied once a week for several months to the dark areas will lighten hyperpigmentation. Products which contain hydroquinone will lighten dark areas. The Obagi Nu-derm System treats hyperpigmentation very well.

• Skin Cleansing
• Skin Moisturizing 
• Skin Exfoliating
• Skin Protection
• Skin Impurities and Conditions
• Skin Nourishment (both inside and outside your body)

DAILY SKIN CARE

• Skin Cleansing
• Skin Moisturizing 
• Skin Exfoliating
• Skin Protection
• Skin Impurities and Conditions
• Skin Nourishment (both inside and outside your body)

Cleansing

To keep your complexion glowing it is recommended to cleanse your face thoroughly twice a day regularly.  The best time for doing this is in the morning and just before bedtime in the evening.  Make sure you choose a facial cleanser that is compatible with your skin type (oily, dry, combination, or normal).  Never use hot water when cleaning your face because it dries out skin.  Use oil-free cleansers if you have an oily skin.  Use moisturizing cleansers if you have dry skin.

Moisturizing

Moisturizing your skin is very important and it helps to protect your skin, regardless of which type or brand used.  Water-based and oil free moisturizers are best for oily skin.  Neutrogena's healthy skin product line is highly recommended!  This product line contain rich vitamins that promote healthy skin.  It is better to apply vitamins in the form of a skin moisturizer directly to your skin topically rather than taking them orally.  It's a great way to achieve instant results for sure!

Exfoliating

Exfoliating is beneficial to all skin types, but especially with black oily skin.  Ridding yourself of dead skin cells that block your pores promotes healthy looking skin looking.

When summer is in full swing and it's time to show some skin!  Be careful! This is when black skin can be very conflicting. Especially when you are wearing backless shirts, spaghetti straps, those shorter than short shorts, even though you are just trying to be fashionable. Oh... and watch out for those sexy two piece bikinis, girls!

Skin Protection

Having fun outdoors is always on the top of the agenda during the summer months, but what most Black women don't realize is that regardless of the amount of melanin or pigment in our skin, long term exposure to ultraviolet rays can put us at a higher risk for melanoma (skin cancer) the lighter Caucasian skin colors.  Be sure to check your skin regularly for any unusual spots or blemishes.  Also, wearing hats, sunglasses is very fashionable and cool, and keep in mind that wearing light colored clothing reflects the sun's rays and helps to keep black skin safe.  Most important:  Always wear a high quality sun block all year long... not just during the summer months.

Skin Impurities/Conditions

Paying close attention to black skin is very important especially during the summer months when the sum is more harmful. However, paying close attention to your skin all year long is very ethical. Should you notice changes in your skin, like discoloring, spots, sours or lumps, to be safe it is recommended to contact a dermatologist immediately.

Nourishment

Nourishment from the inside out.  Similarly as taking care of your skin from the outside, it is equally as important for you to take care of your skin from the inside.  Your diet and your lifestyle plays a large role in your skins condition.

Smoking has been proven to cause premature aging and less than healthy looking wrinkled skin.

Alcohol tends to dehydrate your skin causing it to look dry and dull.  Also, dry skin that is not well moisturized is more prone to developing fine lines.

High fat diets with little or no fruits and vegetables are not healthy and they it is also bad for your skin.

Research shows that a healthy diet can improve ones skin appearance and minimize fine lines and wrinkles.

Remember the speech about needing at least 8-10 glasses of water a daily?  Well, it's true--water hydrates the skin, which is exactly what you need.  As you age, the skin becomes dry and looses elasticity.  So drink up!